The World of Women

We have jobs! Due to some recent turnover in the system, King Saud University decided to employ us after all, meaning we have the jobs that we originally expected to have. Things seem to flip flop from day to day, so we've learned that it's best to try not to get stressed out about things, as they seem to change quickly or resolve themselves in some way. This is easier said than done, of course, but it helps that the people around us – hotel staff, university staff and co-workers – really do want to help us have a good experience.


Misha's preschool. They learn reading, math, and some Arabic and French. The numbers one through four are written on the board in Arabic, from right to left.


Day care has been the biggest challenge. We found a great little preschool for Misha, run by a British Muslim woman from her villa where she lives with her Saudi husband and children. Sebastian has been going there too, but we are looking for a cheaper option for him. It has been nice knowing that the boys are safe and enjoying their time at school while we are at work. The other headache is transportation. Josh works on the men's campus in the north of Riyadh, while I work on the women's campus a good 30 minutes away by taxi. Luckily, the preschool is not far from Josh's campus, but it has taken some organization to get everyone where they need to go. Right now, Josh rides with the provided driver for the school to drop off the kids and get to campus, while I have been sharing a taxi with two other women teachers in the hotel. We are in the process of trying to line up day care for Wednesdays, as the preschool is only four days a week. I ended up not going to work this Wednesday because of this problem. Luckily, my direct supervisor is very understanding and a mother of eight.


Working has thrown us into different worlds – for me, the world of all women; for Josh, the world of men with no trace of women anywhere. Last night, when we went to the mall and were surrounded by both men and women again, Josh commented that he had almost forgotten that women existed. It was odd for me as well, because I was used to seeing them as "regular" people in "regular" clothes, not covered in black where I wouldn't even be able recognize one if she was my own student.


Women are completely covered until entering the gates of the campus. Once inside, the campus is a lively place of women in their comfort zone, wearing their bright clothes, letting their hair flow free, showing their faces, even driving - yes, driving! - golf-cart-like mobiles around campus. The abayas and headscarves and removed, revealing the real women of Saudi Arabia. They look like typical high schools girls with beautiful dark eyes and hair wearing a variety of very Western-style clothes. They all wear the obligatory long, dark skirt, with a top that allows for more personality, from American-casual to far dressier styles. They walk around with their nice purses, backpacks, and cell phones, giggling with their friends and talking nonstop in Arabic. It's quite refreshing to hear so much Arabic, since our contact has been mainly with store employees and taxi drivers from India, Egypt, Pakistan, Bangladesh, etc., who can more-or-less communicate in the universal language of English.


Our job is actually within the Preparatory Year of KSU's massive English program, geared to 18-and 19-year-old high school graduates who need to improve their ESL test scores to enter the university next year. The program, less than two years old, is plagued with too many decision-makers and all kinds of problems, so new rules come down from the top constantly. Josh said that already this month he has seen the attendance policy changed four times. The chaotic nature of the job and the lack of motivation on the part of the students make this job challenging at times, but hopefully we will learn to go with the flow.


Most of this week, I have been simply observing other classes, looking at resources, and talking to other teachers to get a feel for the job. I was excited to have the opportunity to fill in for a teacher for one class, a higher-level writing class of about 20 girls. Perhaps because of my attitude of wanting to get to know the girls and being curious about their studies and city, the girls responded to me very well, eager to talk to me and ask me questions about what I thought of Saudi Arabia. The lesson plan I was left with was writing about future goals, so through this project, I got to see what these girls aspired to. The answers? Getting high grades in university; getting a master's degree; becoming famous businesswomen, inventors, and programmers; memorizing the Holy Koran; learning English; and traveling the world to see other cultures. One supervisor told me to encourage their goals, because the topic is often a depressing one for these girls. Their chances of fulfilling their lofty goals are unfortunately not very great in their culture.


It is obvious from talking to everyone that most classes are far less motivated. Saudi students do not pay for their education; in fact, they receive a stipend to attend classes. Everything is very student-centered, to the extent that the school caters to their every whim. Though we are teaching university-aged students, it will be more like dealing with middle schoolers – trying to hold their attention and keep them from chatting with their friends the whole time or texting on their phones. It looks like it will be a challenge! On the upside, everyone also says that the students are very friendly.

The women's campus. It's striclty taboo to take pictures of students inside, so this is all I can give you!

The women's campus is the oldest branch of KSU. As one Saudi staff member explained to me, "When the men have damaged everything, they give it to us. It's the oldest university; it's 50 years old." Despite its age, it is a beautiful campus. Some other teachers and I like to buy our lunch and take it outside to eat on little tables under a shaded roof, surrounded by palm trees and exotic, aggressive birds with raucus calls. Looking out at the perfect palm trees makes me wonder for a second where I am. A desert island? No, Saudi Arabia!


Even though we are among women only inside the walls of the campus, a strict dress-code is still enforced. Teachers (and students as well) must wear skirts to the floor and shirts with sleeves to the elbow. When leaving, our abaya must cover our clothes to ankles and the head scarf must hide every trace of hair. Different schools set their own dress codes, and I hear that many schools require the face to be covered as well. I'm glad I don't have to do that.


Everything about teaching is still very new to us, so we will keep you updated as we get into the swing of things.